What would you suggest to be maximum but still correct strings height at the 1st fret?

[braidedwire]

Hi everyone,

I got this feeling i don't like my string height. When action is nice at higher frets bending at first few positions is very uncomfortable. When i set the action high at the bridge it's somehow good enough at frets 1-9 or 10, but too high further up the neck.
So my guess is setting the strings at the nut higher should make sense.
What strings height over the 1st fret for bass E and treble E would you recommend high enough, but not too high so the playability and intonation would still be good?
The suggested minimum i believe is to have a just barely any travel when holding the string at the 3rd and tapping on the 1st. But how high can it get reasonably?

 

[Chili-Mike]

Note that bending on the first few frets will ALWAYS be more difficult, because there is more string tension near the nut. Assuming your first few frets are correctly intonated (check with a tuner) and bridge adjustments arent working, check neck relief. No amount of bridge adjustment will overcome a truss rod that is not adjusted correctly. If your first few frets are sharp on the tuner (fret lightly and near the fret to check this), then your nut slots may be too high.

 

[TheArchitect]

I think the minimum height is more relevant question. The higher you go the more intonation issues you have

 

[Chili-Mike]

Edited

 

[Wilko]

nut height is a function of neck relief and intonation. Nut slots should only be optimized AFTER the neck straightness is where you want it. Neck straightness (relief) is the FIRST thing to do. For most playing--specially for lowest action--straighter is better.
Nut slots can then be cut to lower the strings to have about .010" under the string at the first fret to start. Check intonation, then lower to taste. Some like them lower.

 

[Any Name You Wish]

nut height is a function of neck relief and intonation. Nut slots should only be optimized AFTER the neck straightness is where you want it. Neck straightness (relief) is the FIRST thing to do. For most playing--specially for lowest action--straighter is better.
Nut slots can then be cut to lower the strings to have about .010" under the string at the first fret to start. Check intonation, then lower to taste. Some like them lower.

Agree. In fact I would not touch the nut slots until all other adjustments are tried with several iterations. Neck relief on an LP or SG can be pretty touchy. Go very slowly with the truss rod adjustment. Just a tiny bit at a time.

 

[charliechitlins]

If you have good buzz-free action that you like, fret a note at the first fret and notice (or measure) the margin by which the string clears the 2nd fret.
That is all the clearance you need between the open string and the 1st fret.
If your nut hasn't been cut, chances are the latter clearance is much greater than the first.